LOS ANGELES — Tory Burch has a new look.
When the American designer label debuted in New York City in February 2004, it showcased a striking, vibrant orange logo and geometric motif — inspired by Moroccan architecture and the bold patterns of David Hicks’ 1960s and ’70s interiors — that quickly became synonymous with the brand.
Tory Burch is now entering a new chapter and direction, which is reflected in the redesign of its Rodeo Drive boutique in Beverly Hills, created with the help of Curiosity designer Gwenael Nicolas. Gone is the signature orange hue.
“The very first store was a little more theatrical back then than today,” Burch, executive chairman and chief creative officer of the company, said of her first experience in brick-and-mortar retail on Elizabeth Street in Manhattan. The brand was known as Tory by TRB then, before it was renamed Tory Burch in spring 2006. A lover of design, Burch, who grew up in Valley Forge, Pa., studied art history at the University of Pennsylvania before moving to New York.
“I think I’ve learned a lot about retail and what works and how to highlight products and colors,” Burch continued. “So this is obviously a very strong evolution, because it’s been 20 years. But for me, I still want to have an inviting environment where people want to come and feel inspired.”
The creative process mirrored her approach to designing the brand’s Mercer Street location, a multilevel, 6,000-square-foot New York flagship unveiled in 2021, which signaled the evolution of Burch’s aesthetic that also has been seen in her collections over the last few years and which earned her last year’s WWD Honor for Women’s Designer of the Year. Both stores reference a moss green rug from the Elizabeth Street shop — the only element of the past — as well as touches of American Shaker (a nod to her childhood) with minimal wood furniture; an eclectic mix of vintage and antique decor; travertine stone tables; French Deco, and Italian modernism.
“That was designed more than six years ago,” she said, reflecting on the Mercer space. “[It] was similar, but the outcome [is] very different. And I think that’s what’s interesting about this store. The essence of our brand and DNA of that clash of modernity and antiques and materials and textures is very present.”
Like Mercer, which combined folk art, basketry and pottery, the Los Angeles flagship at 366 North Rodeo Drive is reminiscent of Burch’s personal spaces, she said. “I almost approached it in a way that I was thinking about my homes today.”
In sun-soaked L.A., she focused on light.
“I’ve wanted to redesign it for a while,” she said of Rodeo. (Simultaneously, she also remodeled the company’s Shanghai Kerry Centre location in China, which echoes a similar look and feel.) “One of the things I love most about Los Angeles is the light. So that was a starting point for me: ‘How do you incorporate the natural light into a store that has that kind of presence?’”
The light itself is an architectural element, allowing for shadow play throughout the day with floor-to-ceiling windows and a skylight atrium. The facade is striking, with a sculptural trellis that climbs up and over the three-story building in a texture that mimics ceramic.
“The result was even more beautiful than I could have imagined,” Burch said of the storefront.
Inside — at 5,000 square feet — the walls are curved and textured, made in striated plaster; the technique was hand-done by New York artist collective Art Groove. It’s a mix of concrete, stone and hammered iron details, featuring a marble staircase inspired by Italian architect and designer Carlo Scarpa, and a collection of diverse, offbeat furnishings (all found by Burch herself). Along with moss, bespoke rugs (including a Jean Lurçat design with horses, via Beauvais Carpets) and textiles come in shades of limoncello, tobacco and rust. The seating is dressed in a tapestry motif designed in-house by the ready-to-wear fabric team.
“It’s so eclectic, but it’s quite planned in a way,” she said of the furniture and accents, which are inspired and sourced from her travels. It’s a blend of Americana with European and some Asian influences (pillows showcase Chinese needlepoint work). “It’s not abundant. I feel like each piece has a presence and says something.”
The apparel and accessories stand out against the backdrop, naturally drawing the eye. The spring 2025 collection, which debuted at the former Domino Sugar Factory in Brooklyn last September during New York Fashion Week, is currently on display.
While merchandise is mixed throughout, the ground level is dedicated to handbags; the second floor — showcasing a hand-woven indigo rug made by a Moroccan women’s collective — offers a shoe salon alongside a selection of tennis, golf and activewear, and the top floor features ready-to-wear, jewelry and a private VIP room.
Custom ceramic pedestals were made by Studio Xavier Mañosa in Barcelona, glazed in oxblood, navy and olive.
“[That] was really fun to work on,” Burch continued. “And it was just so beautiful, the way that is contrasted with the floors, and the mix of textures and colors that play off of each other with the natural light.”
In the end, the entirety is “a play of tension,” she said. “It’s a contrast in shapes and textures, and even with the choice of materials, but also antiques and lighting. I’m obsessed with interiors.”
The shift in aesthetic “will influence different things as we go forward,” she said, when asked if the design direction will continue. “And even elements from the space will work in certain locations. To me, this was perfect for L.A.…we’ll take different elements into the future.”
It was in 2005 that Tory Burch made its L.A. debut on Robertson Boulevard, which is now closed. The brand opened on Rodeo Drive in 2013 — it’s one of 13 L.A. store locations and 400 globally, with 125 operating in the U.S. and Canada.
Of the L.A. market, Burch said: “There’s so much diversity in L.A., and there’s so many different kinds of women and men. Actually, I see a lot of men wearing our things in L.A. as well. But to me, it’s interesting that it’s all ages. We have a younger customer in L.A. But they’re very different. I love that there’s an outdoor element to L.A. and nature, but then there’s the Hollywood glamour. In a way, it’s a contrast in itself.”