As it celebrates its 130th anniversary, Berluti is doubling down on quiet luxury.
Known for its signature patinas, the brand went dark with its fall 2025 collection, with shoes in 50 shades of black. At its presentation in the historic drawing rooms of the Simone et Cino Del Duca Foundation, an artisan applied inky dye to a square of brown leather to demonstrate the technique.
Stripping the footwear of color put the focus on the shape of the shoes, from the classic Alessandro oxford — based on the original 1895 design displayed in a glass case — to the brand’s latest styles, the square-toed Mont Thabor and a softer version of the Stellar sneaker introduced by Kris Van Assche in 2019.
A portfolio displayed runway looks from the three creative directors who have put their stamp on Berluti’s ready-to-wear collections: Alessandro Sartori, who established the category in 2012; Haider Ackermann, who served as creative director for just three seasons, and Van Assche, who left in 2021 after three years at the helm.
All played with color, further underlining the relative restraint of this season’s lineup centered on the Forestière jacket, a style that entered the Berluti vernacular with parent company LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton’s acquisition of bespoke tailor Arnys in 2012.
Originally designed in 1947 for architect Le Corbusier, it’s “a cross between hunting jacket and chore coat,” Berluti said.
The embodiment of minimal chic, the style works equally well for daytime — in double-faced cashmere, worn solo or layered under a biker jacket — and for after dark. The versions in crimson suede and midnight blue velvet were particularly appealing.
Quietly touring the exhibit before the official press day was South Korean singer and actor Lee Jun-ho, also known as Junho, whose effortless style illustrates how the heritage brand can fit into today’s more informal lifestyles.
The brand has introduced a new leather goods line to match: its roomy Périple shoulder bag comes in a more supple version of its signature Venezia leather so comfort is never sacrificed for style. Berluti may be old, but it certainly isn’t stuffy.
